I was thinking about the title of our blog the other day. "An Old Path" and "a journey of two friends". As sometimes happens, we couldn't arrange a 19th century church visist this weekend - we had plans of attending "St. Patrick's" in Hamilton as we weren't able to attend mass the day we visited the church and choose to attend "Christ the King" cathedral instead - the home of the Bishop of the Diocese of Hamilton. We both wanted to return to St. Patrick's, though, because there was such a feeling of peace inside this church we wanted to experience it more fully. We couldn't make it work this weekend, but part of the fun of this expedition is planning and looking forward to the next discovery. So we'll save St. Patrick's for another day and look forward to our return.
Back to "An Old Path". After attending St. Francis church where we are closing out our 50th year Jubilee celebrations, my friend surprised me with a country drive along the old pioneer roads. The leaves are just starting to change and the ebb and flow of our favourite valley was highlighted in the ambers and yellows of fall. My friend said he wanted to drive on dirt roads and a few minutes later we stumbled upon a secluded gravel road with trees creating an umbrella of amber and yellow leaves overhead. I teased him and asked "Do you get everything you ask for?" - and then remembered the passage "Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you" (Matthew 7:7).
We've been given so many things as part of this journey. We've learned about architecture, and buildings but also about faith and community and friendship and fellowship and also about our pioneer roots. I live in a city but when I drive the old roads I feel those roots call me very strongly.
We stopped at an old pioneer cemetery and read the names lovingly inscribed on the stones. Many of the stone were weather-worn and we could hardly make out the names from 150 years ago. Who stood where we stood? Who mourned these lives?
I suppose this all may seem really off topic and not have much to do with 19th century churches. But when I am out in the country with trees and the valley and open sky and glimpses of wildlife, I feel closer to God than at almost any other time. Maybe that is why I like it so much and seek it out. Einsten once said that the more he studies the universe, the more he believes in a higher power. Just like the finest watch is created by a mastercraftsman, the natural world around us seems created by a mind so sophisticated we can hardly comprehend the genius behind it. To believe it all to be random would be to believe those intricate watch parts came together by themselves or when thrown on the floor. No. A greater hand was behind the enterprise.
Maybe a greater hand is behind this enterprise too. Lead and we will follow. An old path.
Miss M.
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Five churches , two friends , one path
Gothic Revival Architecture and Joseph Connolly
Someone once said show me what you build and I'll tell you who you are. The early story of our nation - it's values, history, optimism and determination and even it's very climate and topography are written on the walls of our prominent buildings. They are uniquely Canadian and they are ours.
Timing, they say, is everything. Gothic revival architecture in Canada coincided with a great period of rapid growth and nation building following Confederation in 1867. It was the favoured building style of the times in Canada. The steep roofs and thick stone walls so characteristic of Gothic architecture are uniquely suited to Canada's northern climate and natural resources. Canada had an abundance of natural stone and was rich with the sandstone and limestone used in the construction of Gothic style buildings. The Canadian winter climate dictates how a building is constructed if it is going to last and Gothic architecture hit both notes.
Height and verticality are also key. The central aisle, or nave, is considerably higher than it is wide. The most efficient way to create height over a vast expanse is through the use of vaulted ceilings held aloft by flying buttresses. It is an idea borrowed from centuries earlier. Vertical lines are emphasized through pointed arches, towers, spires, steeples, and long vertical windows. This raises the eyes upward and in the case of churches, heavenward.
Likewise, there is an extensive use of windows to create light. The windows are often filled with stain glass to add colour but also to add narrative art - or "the poor man's bible" in churches. They tell the stories of the bible to a largely illiterate community.
Height. Verticality. Space. Light. Stone. Towers. Steeples. Spires. Stain glass. Pointed arches. These are the key features that make up Gothic Revival Architecture and the style most favoured by architects like Joseph Connolly.
Joseph Connolly was part of the wave of immigrants who set up shop here. Born in Limerick, Ireland he received his training in architecture under J.J. McCarthy, a leading 19th century Catholic Church architect. Connolly brought with him to Canada a keen interest in Gothic Revival Architecture. He designed for people that had money and the best source of money at the time was church and government.
Connolly "happened" at the right time for Canada. The buildings of the day were designed with the future in mind and broadcast the message "we have arrived". During his time in Canada, Connolly designed or refurbished more than 40 churches in Ontario. He applied centuries old designs that share a bloodline to the hilltops of Ireland.
And so we chase Connolly. By highlighting 5 churches designed by Joseph Connolly, we hope to provide a window for others to learn about the churches, the communities which built them and our rich Canadian heritage. We offer a few of our own personal observations along the way. Please join us on the journey and dream the architects' dream.
St. Patrick's Church - Hamilton, Ont. (1875)
St. Patrick's - Hamilton, ON
St. Patrick's Church is located in Hamilton, Ontario the "steel capital of Canada". Industrial ties run deep in Hamilton, but the city also boasts a natural setting that can rival any city in Canada. The cool blues of Lake Ontario on one side play off the deep greens and grey stone of the escarpment of the other. Steel and concrete. Water and stone.
Joseph Connolly designed this church for the largely Irish parishioners that worked in the iron mills of Lake Ontario. In the East end of 1877 Hamilton, one can drink water from the streams and eat fish from Lake Ontario. The church is new and fresh and most likely surrounded by greenery. Thirty-five miles to the south west a Scottish immigrant to Canada by the name of Bell has just invented something quite unique. He is in Tutela Heights, a small hamlet burg of Brantford and his telephone is going to bring changes they say.
In present day Hamilton, St. Patrick's is now located in the city centre and surrounded by pavement. There is a basketball hoop from the nearby schoolyard within 12 feet of the head. Fortunately, or unfortunately, depending on your viewpoint, the stain glass windows are protected from stray balls, rocks and avian threats by Plexiglas and chicken wiring. The once mighty spire has been removed, most likely for safety reasons as it deteriorated over time and hasn't yet been replaced. Despite this, the church appears to be in incredibly good shape. The day we visited, scaffolding was erected on the back wall of the church and pails from mason's used for parging were upside down on the planking . It's current exterior condition and surroundings only hint at it's once stately past.
St. Patrick's, in fact, was once a Cathedral, home to the Bishop of the Diocese of Hamilton, an honour now given to the much newer and more grand Christ the King Cathedral located on the mountain. St. Patrick's, however, is truly a 13th century Neo-Gothic style church. It has the look of Limerick, Ireland as if Connolly took this building's design from his birthplace and childhood and transformed it here for the day's mostly Irish congregants. Massive pillars hold up flying buttresses in this small church. The front of the church has a beautiful rose window and a multitude of small stained "rosettes" in cinquefoils in the clerestory. Other Gothic features include the central nave, the flanking aisles, the Gothic arches over doorways and windows and the massive double entrance doors with massive rustic iron hinges.
Rose Window and Stained Glass - Note Plexiglass and Wiring
Despite some outward condition issues, St. Patrick's is serene and welcoming inside. The day we visited the people acknowledged us and bade us well. There was a pair of gentlemen that sat in the most rearward bench, both leaning on canes, dressed in grey suit coats and hats. They looked at home here and nodded in agreement on both our arrival and departure. It's clear St. Patrick's is a haven of tranquility and calm. Within these historic and holy walls, peace reigns.
"I leave you peace, my peace I give you." (John 14:27)
Church of the Immaculate Conception - Formosa, Ont. (1875)
Church of the Immaculate Conception - Formosa, ON
We have a fascination for a certain valley. This particular valley runs from Kincardine on Lake Huron down to Long Point on Lake Erie and it holds scenic riches all along the path that await discovery. Formosa, Ontario happens to be located in South Bruce County on a picturesque stretch of this valley. Rev. Jasper Matoga, a Jesuit missionary, visited the area in Jan. 1853 on one of many trips to minister to the new settlement of the region. Upon seeing the valley in which the present day hamlet is situated, Matoga described it as "Formosa" the Latin word for beautiful.
The Church of the Immaculate Conception is located atop the northeast hill and can be seen for miles thanks to her steeple. The foundation for this Joseph Connolly church was laid in 1875 - several years earlier than "Our Lady" in Guelph or "St Peter's Basilica" in London. Perhaps Connolly landed his commission in those cities based on his work here. One can only speculate. Designed by Connolly, it was built as funds allowed by the largely German immigrant farming population. In the latter half of the 19th century, a larger percentage of men than today were skilled in trades other than working their farms. You built your own house or you went without in rural Ontario and these same skills were used in erecting this church.
The farmers built around and over the original wooden church and used that structure for scaffolding for the new build. Once the shell was completed in 1880 the old wooden church was dismantled and it is this date that appears over the doorway. The interior was completed by 1885 a full five years later and is distinguished by it's intricate Gothic-style altars carved by Nicholas Durrer, a local craftsman and parishioner.
The exterior is made of hand cut stone from local rock quarries and limestone laboriously shipped by train to Mildmay and than carted by horse to the hill top. Approximately 90% is "Formosa reef" a term applied to the rough, porous locally abundant and cheap stone. The smoother limestone was brought in by train from Guelph and than by wagon over to the church site. The smoother and most likely more expensive stone was only used for a portion of the church's construction including the first few rows of the foundation, trim and pointing detail. The Sacristy, chapels and tower appear to be part of the original build and her huge bells were from the old wooden church. The pillars are plaster and masonry and have been painted in a yellow paint and Indian ink mixture or of something similar in an attempt to portray wood grain. The plaster work is an amazing testament to the original builders.
The exterior walls are square blocks of stone and the peaked roof is simply placed atop the walls making it simpler, squatter and stronger than the flying buttress style. This design was largely due to the fact that there was a church inside the church to work around and the construction could be paced by available funds.
Exterior of Sanctuary - Formosa, ON
We learn much from these early settlers whose approach was methodical, focused, measured and sustained. Looking at the landscape, the pioneers would have had a tough life and worked hard for their farms and family. Faith and family were the backbone of any settler's life.
"He is like a man building a house, who dug deep and laid the foundation on the rock. And when the flood arose, the stream beat vehemently against that house, and could not shake it, for it was founded on the rock." (Luke 6:48)
Church of Our Lady Immaculate - Guelph, Ont. (1877)
Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception - Guelph, ON
"Our Lady" as the locals fondly call this stunning structure, has long been considered Connolly's masterpiece and flagship Church. It holds a commanding hilltop presence silently watching over the city of Guelph. John Galt, founder of Galt, once wrote "On this hill would one day rise a church to rival St. Peter's in Rome". One can't help but be impressed by the grand boldness of the vision.
The towers alone soar 200 feet into God's blue sky and add to that the elevation of the hill and what a view they create. They rise majestically like some great horned beast from a fictional medieval city - completely foreign in Southwestern Ontario. What awe they inspire, even today when we are used to buildings 50, 100 stories high. One can only imagine their effect on the citizenry almost 100 years ago. Perhaps that is one purpose of these grand churches - to inspire awe and faith in their humble congregants. We certainly felt awe and respect. The church has been given privilege by city fathers who have made it law that it has precedence over the view and no one or anything shall obstruct it.
The exterior is an absolute work of art and vision. The massive structure was for the most part made possible by the plenitude of shale and other sandstones found locally in the stone deposits and quarries. Workers took fifty years to complete the construction and it shows. The builder's mind wonders, if this is above the ground, how far down did they dig for the footings? We headed for the basement and noticed the massive support columns which are situated a full 1/4 of the width of the building off the exterior walls. These columns share the weight of the roof and upper stone facades with the exterior walls. This technique is daring and even more so for the time. Little wonder this is Connolly's watermark Church.
The granite pillars stretch 60 feet or more sit on even bigger columns that are buried for an unknown length into the earth. We suspect 50 ft into the earth or drilled and blasted into bedrock which is more likely given the church's location to stone quarries.
The Narthex of the church is huge and has founts located on the walls between three pairs of doors most likely to control traffic in and out of the doors. There has been some modifications performed over the years and at one time the side entrances would have emptied their traffic into this massive Narthex making it even bigger. When the church doors are open, one can see a tunnel vision view of the entire main street of Guelph.
The huge vaulted ceilings are trimmed with 8x12 ft hand sawn oak that was quarter sawn and then steamed or shaped over a fire until perfect. The fine lumber and plaster work encases some of the busiest and most gorgeous tile work that along with the impressive stain glass throughout the church tell the stories of the bible. Near the crossing offers a fine view of the galleries and side entrances/exits. This church is built in a true gothic cruciform shape - and if viewed from the air appears in the shape of a crucifix.
Interior of "Our Lady" - Guelph, ON
Much has been written about "Our Lady" and our entry just touches on a few of our observations. Tours are also available for those interested in the history of the church. Scaffolding is currently encasing parts of the exterior as the church and the outbuildings are receiving massive restorations. "Our Lady" is the only Connolly church designated as a National Historic Site and people visit this church by the thousands.
We recommend this building to anyone who has a love for anything of beauty.
"Lord, who shall be admitted to your tent?
Who may dwell on your holy hill?" (Psalm 15)
St. Patrick's Church - Kinkora, Ont. (1882)
St. Patrick's - Kinkora, ON
Today we visited a home to hope and well being. The stop this morning was St. Patrick's Church in Kinkora, a crossroads village located just 19 kilometers NW of Stratford, Ontario. Kinkora in Gaelic means "a place of beauty" and this spot is certainly that. The church is positioned perfectly on a East/West axis. The country setting is as peaceful and serene today as it must have been 125 years ago. Stopping at the crossroads, we wondered "have the hands of time stopped in this tiny hamlet"?
Construction for the church began in 1882 by 105 families for a cost of $30,000. Built by a community of mostly Irish immigrants, it is today a place of worship for many Dutch immigrants who arrived in the 1950s. Modelled after the great medieval Gothic cathedrals of Europe, the main framing consists of flying buttresses and oak rib vaulting.
The exterior is yellow line brick and the soldiering over the windows is European in style. Local lore tells of a possible German influence in the brick work and it is true this style of bricking is common in parts of Bruce County which was largely settled by German immigrants. Interestingly, Connolly was in Bruce County a mere 7 years earlier to design Immaculate Conception Church in Formosa, Ontario and perhaps noticed the distinctive brick work.
The single tower has been retained and repaired but the spire, once an astounding 200 ft in height, has been removed due to deterioration. Such a majestic spire would have been visible for miles and it's height would have rivalled the mighty towers of "Our Lady" in Guelph. A replica of the tower and spire appears on the miniaturized model located inside the church.
Beautiful stained glass appears throughout this church and especially a stunning rose window located at the rear of the church. Circular patterns repeat in varying combinations throughout the church - three, four, five six and the unending circle symbolizes eternity.
"The Winter Chapel" resides on the NE side of the church and may have been the place of worship while the original church was being constructed. Certainly it would have been used for services in the winter when the larger church was too difficult to heat. Like any Southern Ontario lot, the bush around Kinkora would have been cleared and burned for heat and winters would have been cold. Big old growth maples currently protect the property from the harsh winters on this rural crossroads. The winter chapel is still used today by the parish Priest to house his vestments and prepare for the days sermon.
Winter Chapel and Rectory - St. Patrick's
There is also a well constructed and beautifully maintained rectory on the property built from red clay brick with a slate roof. Father Paul, the current Parish Priest, wondered if Connolly designed this structure as well, but so far hasn't been able to verify this. Connolly also designed residences and other public buildings in his architectural practice.
There has recently been massive renovations to this church through the efforts of Restoration and Fundraising Committees and their work so far has included removal of the deteriorating spire and extensive restoration of the interior. The day we visited the entire property and grounds were immaculate and there was a man who set to the task of sweeping and readying the church for the morning mass.
The village itself is tiny but one gets the sense of true community that retains the friendliness of an era gone by. After mass there was a table set up with coffee and the entire attending congregation was out back, standing around, talking and exchanging pleasantries. There would be chores to do before and after church (cows don't milk themselves!) but for now it was church.
A home to hope and well being. There is a little treasure yet in the Emerald isle and St. Patrick's at Kinkora, this "place of beauty" captivates all who congregate here.
"For where your treasure is, there your heart will be also."(Matthew 6:21)
St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica - London, Ont. (1880)
St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica - London, ON
The more one begins to think and write about 19th century churches, the more tempting it is to compare one to the other. It's a somewhat dangerous past-time - much like comparing the qualities of beloved children because each has her own unique features and what might be first perceived as weakness sometimes becomes the strong point. St. Peter's Basilica in London, home to the Bishop of the Diocese, presents such a case.
Driving into the heart of downtown London, it is difficult not to long for the pastoral setting presented by Kinkora or the Gothic giant of Our Lady towering over the city of Guelph. St. Peter's, by contrast, stands squarely in the urban mix of downtown London. We even had difficulty locating the church as surprisingly the towers were dwarfed by concrete condominiums and office buildings. The open fields of Kinkora have been replaced by busy downtown sidewalks, passing pedestrians, and impatient car horns that make up city life.
At first we were disappointed by this, but soon realized that St. Peter's provides the centre calm and sturdy steadfastness so often necessary in city life. City dwellers often seek out places of tranquility and calm amidst the urban chaos. This church is not silent and makes it's presence known in this busy downtown. The cathedrals house 12 bells, each named after one of the 12 apostles and were added in 1926 in celebration of the city's 100th jubilee. They ring each quarter hour. The great organ, purchased in 1926 for $23,000 and which has 59 stops and 3,869 pipes, drowned out the sounds of passing traffic and diesel buses.
This church really paid tribute to Connolly's design acoustics and when the introductory hymn was finished we turned to each other and said "that alone was worth the drive to London".
The Basilica values it's history. They have a wonderful website that provides a wealth of information and have produced a DVD "St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica - The Journey" as well as a booklet "Celebrating 125 Years of the St. Peter's Basilica" which are available at the Basilica. While all this information is readily available, we'd like to take a moment to note our personal observations.
This Cathedral Basilica was named after the first Pope, St. Peter the gate keeper, and it has a very warm and inviting feel. The outside grounds are well kept and simple in design. We entered the back of the church via the main doors and into the massive Narthex. It has been changed over the years to accommodate the needs of the church but this is definitely a Joseph Connolly building. The outer doors were closed and the side entrances are intact on this church and their traffic empties itself through arches into the Narthex. There is a massive pool for a fount filled with holy water just inside the main doors and the word grandeur comes to mind. This very narrow room in between the outside doors and the main body of the church was used for baptism. The philosophy behind this was Baptisms should take place outside and you enter the church through Baptism.
This church is trimmed in Oak and it was the wood that caught our gaze immediately upon walking up the three steps that separate the Narthex and the main body of the church. The nave or center hallway is wide and the space rolls ahead waiting in anticipation of discovery. Oak Rib Vaulting encases the entire ceiling with a spectacular "web" over the Apse. The pillars are a very beautiful “Dusty Rose” and are colossal in diameter and height. The roof, spires, stone chimneys and stone exterior walls that are up on the clerestory are held up by the flying buttress framing and these pillars. An engineering marvel indeed. This same pillar and buttress design has been employed since the 13th century with great success for longevity.
The sun was in the west and the fact that it was shining in the side wall at 6 pm was a little odd. We tried to get our bearings and thought that this church isn’t sitting correctly. This is true and the reason is that the old church, the church of St. Lawrence, was sitting out back while this one was being constructed and it ran East/West. The Cathedral was built in such close proximity that the builders simply couldn’t place it differently. That explains the stain glass window on the right hand side (east) of the main entrance depicting Baptism. The sanctuary floor, altar and podium are made from marble.
The front wall has 7 arches that are filled in with plaster. There is a small doorway from the front wall into the sacristy. The materials for St. Peters were imported from all over the world - New York, Kentucky and Michigan but as far away as Austria. The pieces that make up the round window over the main doors were made in Austria, shipped to London Ontario, reassembled and installed. The windows located at the transepts are magnificent and the sun that was playing tag behind the clouds outside broke loose and shone its light through a saint in that window. We later learned that this window depicts the Apostles Creed. There is a light gold coloured scroll intertwining throughout the image which was made even more spectacular by the sun.
There are many interesting stories about the actual building of this church. One includes the mason strike where the apse was in danger of incompletion only to be rescued by pulling a mason from retirement, and another the use of recycled brick from a demolished post office to complete the twin towers nearly 75 years after the church received its own start. The above description is merely a sliver of what was transferred into our hands.
St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica east - London, ON
Surely St. Peter's Basilica Cathedral has fulfilled her holy mandate first articulated at the dedication on June 28th, 1885 to stand as "an eloquent and enduring monument" to our Lord and to welcome all who enter her doors.
"And I tell you that you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church" (Matthew 16:18)
The Journey Continues
We hope you enjoyed your time along with us as we traced these old paths. This experience wasn't entirely our doing but rather a flow of charity in our direction. We were helped, welcomed and appreciated wherever we went and that is the best way to spend any day. There is still so much to see and the road is full of riches along the way. Perhaps you may take your own journey and drive the old pioneer roads where trees create a multi-coloured umbrella overhead.
Thank you for walking an old path with us.
"Go in peace," the priest replied. "For the LORD is watching over your journey." (Judges 18:6)
Written by Maureen and Lorne
Photographs by Lorne
Someone once said show me what you build and I'll tell you who you are. The early story of our nation - it's values, history, optimism and determination and even it's very climate and topography are written on the walls of our prominent buildings. They are uniquely Canadian and they are ours.
Timing, they say, is everything. Gothic revival architecture in Canada coincided with a great period of rapid growth and nation building following Confederation in 1867. It was the favoured building style of the times in Canada. The steep roofs and thick stone walls so characteristic of Gothic architecture are uniquely suited to Canada's northern climate and natural resources. Canada had an abundance of natural stone and was rich with the sandstone and limestone used in the construction of Gothic style buildings. The Canadian winter climate dictates how a building is constructed if it is going to last and Gothic architecture hit both notes.
Height and verticality are also key. The central aisle, or nave, is considerably higher than it is wide. The most efficient way to create height over a vast expanse is through the use of vaulted ceilings held aloft by flying buttresses. It is an idea borrowed from centuries earlier. Vertical lines are emphasized through pointed arches, towers, spires, steeples, and long vertical windows. This raises the eyes upward and in the case of churches, heavenward.
Likewise, there is an extensive use of windows to create light. The windows are often filled with stain glass to add colour but also to add narrative art - or "the poor man's bible" in churches. They tell the stories of the bible to a largely illiterate community.
Height. Verticality. Space. Light. Stone. Towers. Steeples. Spires. Stain glass. Pointed arches. These are the key features that make up Gothic Revival Architecture and the style most favoured by architects like Joseph Connolly.
Joseph Connolly was part of the wave of immigrants who set up shop here. Born in Limerick, Ireland he received his training in architecture under J.J. McCarthy, a leading 19th century Catholic Church architect. Connolly brought with him to Canada a keen interest in Gothic Revival Architecture. He designed for people that had money and the best source of money at the time was church and government.
Connolly "happened" at the right time for Canada. The buildings of the day were designed with the future in mind and broadcast the message "we have arrived". During his time in Canada, Connolly designed or refurbished more than 40 churches in Ontario. He applied centuries old designs that share a bloodline to the hilltops of Ireland.
And so we chase Connolly. By highlighting 5 churches designed by Joseph Connolly, we hope to provide a window for others to learn about the churches, the communities which built them and our rich Canadian heritage. We offer a few of our own personal observations along the way. Please join us on the journey and dream the architects' dream.
St. Patrick's Church - Hamilton, Ont. (1875)
St. Patrick's - Hamilton, ON
St. Patrick's Church is located in Hamilton, Ontario the "steel capital of Canada". Industrial ties run deep in Hamilton, but the city also boasts a natural setting that can rival any city in Canada. The cool blues of Lake Ontario on one side play off the deep greens and grey stone of the escarpment of the other. Steel and concrete. Water and stone.
Joseph Connolly designed this church for the largely Irish parishioners that worked in the iron mills of Lake Ontario. In the East end of 1877 Hamilton, one can drink water from the streams and eat fish from Lake Ontario. The church is new and fresh and most likely surrounded by greenery. Thirty-five miles to the south west a Scottish immigrant to Canada by the name of Bell has just invented something quite unique. He is in Tutela Heights, a small hamlet burg of Brantford and his telephone is going to bring changes they say.
In present day Hamilton, St. Patrick's is now located in the city centre and surrounded by pavement. There is a basketball hoop from the nearby schoolyard within 12 feet of the head. Fortunately, or unfortunately, depending on your viewpoint, the stain glass windows are protected from stray balls, rocks and avian threats by Plexiglas and chicken wiring. The once mighty spire has been removed, most likely for safety reasons as it deteriorated over time and hasn't yet been replaced. Despite this, the church appears to be in incredibly good shape. The day we visited, scaffolding was erected on the back wall of the church and pails from mason's used for parging were upside down on the planking . It's current exterior condition and surroundings only hint at it's once stately past.
St. Patrick's, in fact, was once a Cathedral, home to the Bishop of the Diocese of Hamilton, an honour now given to the much newer and more grand Christ the King Cathedral located on the mountain. St. Patrick's, however, is truly a 13th century Neo-Gothic style church. It has the look of Limerick, Ireland as if Connolly took this building's design from his birthplace and childhood and transformed it here for the day's mostly Irish congregants. Massive pillars hold up flying buttresses in this small church. The front of the church has a beautiful rose window and a multitude of small stained "rosettes" in cinquefoils in the clerestory. Other Gothic features include the central nave, the flanking aisles, the Gothic arches over doorways and windows and the massive double entrance doors with massive rustic iron hinges.
Rose Window and Stained Glass - Note Plexiglass and Wiring
Despite some outward condition issues, St. Patrick's is serene and welcoming inside. The day we visited the people acknowledged us and bade us well. There was a pair of gentlemen that sat in the most rearward bench, both leaning on canes, dressed in grey suit coats and hats. They looked at home here and nodded in agreement on both our arrival and departure. It's clear St. Patrick's is a haven of tranquility and calm. Within these historic and holy walls, peace reigns.
"I leave you peace, my peace I give you." (John 14:27)
Church of the Immaculate Conception - Formosa, Ont. (1875)
Church of the Immaculate Conception - Formosa, ON
We have a fascination for a certain valley. This particular valley runs from Kincardine on Lake Huron down to Long Point on Lake Erie and it holds scenic riches all along the path that await discovery. Formosa, Ontario happens to be located in South Bruce County on a picturesque stretch of this valley. Rev. Jasper Matoga, a Jesuit missionary, visited the area in Jan. 1853 on one of many trips to minister to the new settlement of the region. Upon seeing the valley in which the present day hamlet is situated, Matoga described it as "Formosa" the Latin word for beautiful.
The Church of the Immaculate Conception is located atop the northeast hill and can be seen for miles thanks to her steeple. The foundation for this Joseph Connolly church was laid in 1875 - several years earlier than "Our Lady" in Guelph or "St Peter's Basilica" in London. Perhaps Connolly landed his commission in those cities based on his work here. One can only speculate. Designed by Connolly, it was built as funds allowed by the largely German immigrant farming population. In the latter half of the 19th century, a larger percentage of men than today were skilled in trades other than working their farms. You built your own house or you went without in rural Ontario and these same skills were used in erecting this church.
The farmers built around and over the original wooden church and used that structure for scaffolding for the new build. Once the shell was completed in 1880 the old wooden church was dismantled and it is this date that appears over the doorway. The interior was completed by 1885 a full five years later and is distinguished by it's intricate Gothic-style altars carved by Nicholas Durrer, a local craftsman and parishioner.
The exterior is made of hand cut stone from local rock quarries and limestone laboriously shipped by train to Mildmay and than carted by horse to the hill top. Approximately 90% is "Formosa reef" a term applied to the rough, porous locally abundant and cheap stone. The smoother limestone was brought in by train from Guelph and than by wagon over to the church site. The smoother and most likely more expensive stone was only used for a portion of the church's construction including the first few rows of the foundation, trim and pointing detail. The Sacristy, chapels and tower appear to be part of the original build and her huge bells were from the old wooden church. The pillars are plaster and masonry and have been painted in a yellow paint and Indian ink mixture or of something similar in an attempt to portray wood grain. The plaster work is an amazing testament to the original builders.
The exterior walls are square blocks of stone and the peaked roof is simply placed atop the walls making it simpler, squatter and stronger than the flying buttress style. This design was largely due to the fact that there was a church inside the church to work around and the construction could be paced by available funds.
Exterior of Sanctuary - Formosa, ON
We learn much from these early settlers whose approach was methodical, focused, measured and sustained. Looking at the landscape, the pioneers would have had a tough life and worked hard for their farms and family. Faith and family were the backbone of any settler's life.
"He is like a man building a house, who dug deep and laid the foundation on the rock. And when the flood arose, the stream beat vehemently against that house, and could not shake it, for it was founded on the rock." (Luke 6:48)
Church of Our Lady Immaculate - Guelph, Ont. (1877)
Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception - Guelph, ON
"Our Lady" as the locals fondly call this stunning structure, has long been considered Connolly's masterpiece and flagship Church. It holds a commanding hilltop presence silently watching over the city of Guelph. John Galt, founder of Galt, once wrote "On this hill would one day rise a church to rival St. Peter's in Rome". One can't help but be impressed by the grand boldness of the vision.
The towers alone soar 200 feet into God's blue sky and add to that the elevation of the hill and what a view they create. They rise majestically like some great horned beast from a fictional medieval city - completely foreign in Southwestern Ontario. What awe they inspire, even today when we are used to buildings 50, 100 stories high. One can only imagine their effect on the citizenry almost 100 years ago. Perhaps that is one purpose of these grand churches - to inspire awe and faith in their humble congregants. We certainly felt awe and respect. The church has been given privilege by city fathers who have made it law that it has precedence over the view and no one or anything shall obstruct it.
The exterior is an absolute work of art and vision. The massive structure was for the most part made possible by the plenitude of shale and other sandstones found locally in the stone deposits and quarries. Workers took fifty years to complete the construction and it shows. The builder's mind wonders, if this is above the ground, how far down did they dig for the footings? We headed for the basement and noticed the massive support columns which are situated a full 1/4 of the width of the building off the exterior walls. These columns share the weight of the roof and upper stone facades with the exterior walls. This technique is daring and even more so for the time. Little wonder this is Connolly's watermark Church.
The granite pillars stretch 60 feet or more sit on even bigger columns that are buried for an unknown length into the earth. We suspect 50 ft into the earth or drilled and blasted into bedrock which is more likely given the church's location to stone quarries.
The Narthex of the church is huge and has founts located on the walls between three pairs of doors most likely to control traffic in and out of the doors. There has been some modifications performed over the years and at one time the side entrances would have emptied their traffic into this massive Narthex making it even bigger. When the church doors are open, one can see a tunnel vision view of the entire main street of Guelph.
The huge vaulted ceilings are trimmed with 8x12 ft hand sawn oak that was quarter sawn and then steamed or shaped over a fire until perfect. The fine lumber and plaster work encases some of the busiest and most gorgeous tile work that along with the impressive stain glass throughout the church tell the stories of the bible. Near the crossing offers a fine view of the galleries and side entrances/exits. This church is built in a true gothic cruciform shape - and if viewed from the air appears in the shape of a crucifix.
Interior of "Our Lady" - Guelph, ON
Much has been written about "Our Lady" and our entry just touches on a few of our observations. Tours are also available for those interested in the history of the church. Scaffolding is currently encasing parts of the exterior as the church and the outbuildings are receiving massive restorations. "Our Lady" is the only Connolly church designated as a National Historic Site and people visit this church by the thousands.
We recommend this building to anyone who has a love for anything of beauty.
"Lord, who shall be admitted to your tent?
Who may dwell on your holy hill?" (Psalm 15)
St. Patrick's Church - Kinkora, Ont. (1882)
St. Patrick's - Kinkora, ON
Today we visited a home to hope and well being. The stop this morning was St. Patrick's Church in Kinkora, a crossroads village located just 19 kilometers NW of Stratford, Ontario. Kinkora in Gaelic means "a place of beauty" and this spot is certainly that. The church is positioned perfectly on a East/West axis. The country setting is as peaceful and serene today as it must have been 125 years ago. Stopping at the crossroads, we wondered "have the hands of time stopped in this tiny hamlet"?
Construction for the church began in 1882 by 105 families for a cost of $30,000. Built by a community of mostly Irish immigrants, it is today a place of worship for many Dutch immigrants who arrived in the 1950s. Modelled after the great medieval Gothic cathedrals of Europe, the main framing consists of flying buttresses and oak rib vaulting.
The exterior is yellow line brick and the soldiering over the windows is European in style. Local lore tells of a possible German influence in the brick work and it is true this style of bricking is common in parts of Bruce County which was largely settled by German immigrants. Interestingly, Connolly was in Bruce County a mere 7 years earlier to design Immaculate Conception Church in Formosa, Ontario and perhaps noticed the distinctive brick work.
The single tower has been retained and repaired but the spire, once an astounding 200 ft in height, has been removed due to deterioration. Such a majestic spire would have been visible for miles and it's height would have rivalled the mighty towers of "Our Lady" in Guelph. A replica of the tower and spire appears on the miniaturized model located inside the church.
Beautiful stained glass appears throughout this church and especially a stunning rose window located at the rear of the church. Circular patterns repeat in varying combinations throughout the church - three, four, five six and the unending circle symbolizes eternity.
"The Winter Chapel" resides on the NE side of the church and may have been the place of worship while the original church was being constructed. Certainly it would have been used for services in the winter when the larger church was too difficult to heat. Like any Southern Ontario lot, the bush around Kinkora would have been cleared and burned for heat and winters would have been cold. Big old growth maples currently protect the property from the harsh winters on this rural crossroads. The winter chapel is still used today by the parish Priest to house his vestments and prepare for the days sermon.
Winter Chapel and Rectory - St. Patrick's
There is also a well constructed and beautifully maintained rectory on the property built from red clay brick with a slate roof. Father Paul, the current Parish Priest, wondered if Connolly designed this structure as well, but so far hasn't been able to verify this. Connolly also designed residences and other public buildings in his architectural practice.
There has recently been massive renovations to this church through the efforts of Restoration and Fundraising Committees and their work so far has included removal of the deteriorating spire and extensive restoration of the interior. The day we visited the entire property and grounds were immaculate and there was a man who set to the task of sweeping and readying the church for the morning mass.
The village itself is tiny but one gets the sense of true community that retains the friendliness of an era gone by. After mass there was a table set up with coffee and the entire attending congregation was out back, standing around, talking and exchanging pleasantries. There would be chores to do before and after church (cows don't milk themselves!) but for now it was church.
A home to hope and well being. There is a little treasure yet in the Emerald isle and St. Patrick's at Kinkora, this "place of beauty" captivates all who congregate here.
"For where your treasure is, there your heart will be also."(Matthew 6:21)
St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica - London, Ont. (1880)
St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica - London, ON
The more one begins to think and write about 19th century churches, the more tempting it is to compare one to the other. It's a somewhat dangerous past-time - much like comparing the qualities of beloved children because each has her own unique features and what might be first perceived as weakness sometimes becomes the strong point. St. Peter's Basilica in London, home to the Bishop of the Diocese, presents such a case.
Driving into the heart of downtown London, it is difficult not to long for the pastoral setting presented by Kinkora or the Gothic giant of Our Lady towering over the city of Guelph. St. Peter's, by contrast, stands squarely in the urban mix of downtown London. We even had difficulty locating the church as surprisingly the towers were dwarfed by concrete condominiums and office buildings. The open fields of Kinkora have been replaced by busy downtown sidewalks, passing pedestrians, and impatient car horns that make up city life.
At first we were disappointed by this, but soon realized that St. Peter's provides the centre calm and sturdy steadfastness so often necessary in city life. City dwellers often seek out places of tranquility and calm amidst the urban chaos. This church is not silent and makes it's presence known in this busy downtown. The cathedrals house 12 bells, each named after one of the 12 apostles and were added in 1926 in celebration of the city's 100th jubilee. They ring each quarter hour. The great organ, purchased in 1926 for $23,000 and which has 59 stops and 3,869 pipes, drowned out the sounds of passing traffic and diesel buses.
This church really paid tribute to Connolly's design acoustics and when the introductory hymn was finished we turned to each other and said "that alone was worth the drive to London".
The Basilica values it's history. They have a wonderful website that provides a wealth of information and have produced a DVD "St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica - The Journey" as well as a booklet "Celebrating 125 Years of the St. Peter's Basilica" which are available at the Basilica. While all this information is readily available, we'd like to take a moment to note our personal observations.
This Cathedral Basilica was named after the first Pope, St. Peter the gate keeper, and it has a very warm and inviting feel. The outside grounds are well kept and simple in design. We entered the back of the church via the main doors and into the massive Narthex. It has been changed over the years to accommodate the needs of the church but this is definitely a Joseph Connolly building. The outer doors were closed and the side entrances are intact on this church and their traffic empties itself through arches into the Narthex. There is a massive pool for a fount filled with holy water just inside the main doors and the word grandeur comes to mind. This very narrow room in between the outside doors and the main body of the church was used for baptism. The philosophy behind this was Baptisms should take place outside and you enter the church through Baptism.
This church is trimmed in Oak and it was the wood that caught our gaze immediately upon walking up the three steps that separate the Narthex and the main body of the church. The nave or center hallway is wide and the space rolls ahead waiting in anticipation of discovery. Oak Rib Vaulting encases the entire ceiling with a spectacular "web" over the Apse. The pillars are a very beautiful “Dusty Rose” and are colossal in diameter and height. The roof, spires, stone chimneys and stone exterior walls that are up on the clerestory are held up by the flying buttress framing and these pillars. An engineering marvel indeed. This same pillar and buttress design has been employed since the 13th century with great success for longevity.
The sun was in the west and the fact that it was shining in the side wall at 6 pm was a little odd. We tried to get our bearings and thought that this church isn’t sitting correctly. This is true and the reason is that the old church, the church of St. Lawrence, was sitting out back while this one was being constructed and it ran East/West. The Cathedral was built in such close proximity that the builders simply couldn’t place it differently. That explains the stain glass window on the right hand side (east) of the main entrance depicting Baptism. The sanctuary floor, altar and podium are made from marble.
The front wall has 7 arches that are filled in with plaster. There is a small doorway from the front wall into the sacristy. The materials for St. Peters were imported from all over the world - New York, Kentucky and Michigan but as far away as Austria. The pieces that make up the round window over the main doors were made in Austria, shipped to London Ontario, reassembled and installed. The windows located at the transepts are magnificent and the sun that was playing tag behind the clouds outside broke loose and shone its light through a saint in that window. We later learned that this window depicts the Apostles Creed. There is a light gold coloured scroll intertwining throughout the image which was made even more spectacular by the sun.
There are many interesting stories about the actual building of this church. One includes the mason strike where the apse was in danger of incompletion only to be rescued by pulling a mason from retirement, and another the use of recycled brick from a demolished post office to complete the twin towers nearly 75 years after the church received its own start. The above description is merely a sliver of what was transferred into our hands.
St. Peter's Cathedral Basilica east - London, ON
Surely St. Peter's Basilica Cathedral has fulfilled her holy mandate first articulated at the dedication on June 28th, 1885 to stand as "an eloquent and enduring monument" to our Lord and to welcome all who enter her doors.
"And I tell you that you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church" (Matthew 16:18)
The Journey Continues
We hope you enjoyed your time along with us as we traced these old paths. This experience wasn't entirely our doing but rather a flow of charity in our direction. We were helped, welcomed and appreciated wherever we went and that is the best way to spend any day. There is still so much to see and the road is full of riches along the way. Perhaps you may take your own journey and drive the old pioneer roads where trees create a multi-coloured umbrella overhead.
Thank you for walking an old path with us.
"Go in peace," the priest replied. "For the LORD is watching over your journey." (Judges 18:6)
Written by Maureen and Lorne
Photographs by Lorne
Sunday, September 19, 2010
St. Peter's RC Church, Goderich, Ont. Sept. 19th, 2010 9 am Service
St. Peter's Church Goderich Ontario
Queen Elizabeth II once commented that Goderich was "the prettiest town in Canada" and never one to disagree with the Queen, I willingly endorse the viewpoint. Goderich is located on the eastern shore of Lake Huron. It is a port town and the salt mines of "Sifto Canada Inc." use the harbour to load salt onto freight and ocean liners for export all over the world. The salt mine extends 5 kilometers under Lake Huron.
The picturesque downtown has a unique octagonal circle known as "The Square" that offers many shops and eating establishments. The day we arrived a Flea market was set up in the park in the middle of the central circle. The drive to Goderich was equally enjoyable - we partook of the many scenic delights offered by the Huron valley that we have spoken of so fondly many times in our journey.
We began our outing very early on Sunday morning - the first week of school busyness that shaped last week continued into this week and we only had time to finalize our plans by the end of the week and decide we would attend St. Peter's in Goderich. My friend knows Goderich very well - it is a favourite summertime swimming spot for his family and holds many happy summer memories - perhaps that even extend into his own child or young adulthood because this valley holds deep appeal for him and I'm not sure where that comes from. Maybe someday I, and you, will find that out. Nevertheless, Goderich was the destination of the day.
St. Peter's Parish serves the communities of Clinton, Goderich and Kingsbridge. Goderich offers the 9 am mass and Kingsbridge the 11 am. We aimed for the 9 am mass so were on the road very early indeed. After a beautiful drive through the valley where the first flush of fall is beginning, we arrived about 15 minutes before mass began. Just in time for a few photos but not enough time to study the building in any great detail. We did note the church is made of smooth limestone blocks, arched stain glass windows with a bell tower and steeple. The interior is modest but everything about this church is impeccably maintained - both inside and out. I didn't see one area that needed improvement or repair. Perhaps not built with great wealth, but surely with great love.
How do we show love? Sometimes by building grand and magnificant churches that call on the best of our skills and talents offered to God. Other times, by attending faithfully and carefully what we've been given. Much like the parishoners of St. Peter's care for their church - and their young parishoners. It was a delight to see the special care this congregation showered on the youngest of attendees in a way I haven't seen in other parishes I've visited. If a nation is defined by how it cares for it's poor, perhaps a parish is defined by how it celebrates it's children.
Yes, the best gifts can't be bought with wealth. The best gifts share who we are. Today I received one of the best gifts.
Miss M.
Hardy Mums
Of The Earth
Today was unique in a way, no rush, nary a plan and travel down fall scene roads. Good company topped the beautiful weather on this our 10th outing. Today's destination was not a Joseph Connolly piece however it does have its own merit. The church we were after today is St. Peter's Church in Goderich. Located at the top of the bluff on the most northern tip of this quaint lakeside town of 8000.The church is quite large and is made of limestone with a single bell tower. We arrived 15 minutes early, just in time to take a few photos and get a seat before mass started.
The service was brought to us by a priest who was visiting the area and has a brother that has a cottage in Bayfield. He spoke of tolerance this am and the sermon sat heavy upon me as I squirmed in my pew. I couldn't help but look at the refinished pews and the miles of Oak that makes up just the seats alone in this spacious building. The Tabernacle and wall right at the front of this church had "twist” turnings and were fantastic to look at and distract the mind.
After mass we walked to the edge of the bluff and tried to get a glimpse of the lake. We traveled by car down the hill to the wharfs and salt mine. There was only a single lake freighter in getting filled. We encircled the bottom of Goderich's water front and stopped at the far south end. This being two years that we have been playing marbles together my friend Maureen and I exchanged gifts that we had made each other (according to the rules)and we both love our gifts.
The drive home was alone worth the trip. The tip of "our" valley starts at the lake and meanders south to Lake Erie. I have often wondered if it carries on south of Erie in the States and thought it would be cool to discover. We crested a hill and descended to Ben Miller and the view that this valley affords is breathtaking and it is only mid September. In the next few short weeks the change into full autumn will come and turn the hardwood lots into an spectacle. Seriously consider packing a car for the day, ensure you have clean car windows and a camera and go. Enjoy what Mother Nature has to offer you for free.
As we headed South through gorgeous country side listening to great music, talking and enjoying good company the week's problems were forgotten about. Much like countless before us, we came the back way down a winding dirt road into a quiet little hamlet called Kinkora . We looked at the church and her surroundings and noted the parking lots were all full. Latin Mass was just under way at noon and the sun was warm on a beautiful fall day. I turned the car south again and headed home.
By writing of this day I can only hope you enjoyed your time along with me as I traced today's steps. I do hope you take your own trip as the leaves turn. Drive the old pioneer rows where trees planted at the side of the road create a multi coloured umbrella over you. Walk a nature's path that is close to your house or heart, enjoy your time. Thank you for walking with me on this old path.
Lorne
Sunday, September 12, 2010
St Agatha RC Church, St. Agatha, Ont. Sept. 12, 2010 11 am Service
I lost my keys this morning. It was a chaotic end to a chaotic week. The first week of school seems to bring with it a heightened busyness everywhere you go and my workplace is no exception. Many families are establishing new routines or reverting to old ones and muscles that haven't been used in awhile are creaking and groaning in protest. So I couldn't find my keys, something that rarely happens to me, on the way out the door to visit St. Agatha Church in St. Agatha Ontario. The topper was I miscommunicated with my friend about our plans so I would be attending this church alone. But after the work week frenzy I looked forward to the quiet and serenity any church provides.
It was a grey morning with a light fog but even so I could see the steeple to St. Agatha Church about a mile down the road. It has been replaced within the last decade through donations not only from local parishioners but from the wider community as well who valued this church as a local landmark. The church sits at the country crossroads of Erbsville Road and Notre Dame Dr about 15 minutes from the city of Waterloo or 11 km NW of Kitchener. The original parish dates to 1857 and St. Agatha Church was built probably built about 30 years later to serve a growing farming community. While not a true Gothic church, it has a central tower and Gothic shaped arched windows. The brick at the entrance way is a slightly deeper colour than elsewhere and looks replaced, most likely when the tower was rebuilt.
Suggesting it's rural connections, it has a field stone foundation like many of the farm houses in the area and a simple metal cross sits atop the steeple. The interior feels much like the church in nearby New Hamburg - they almost feel like sister churches and if I lived close by I would have a difficult time choosing between the two. Where that church made use of shades of fresh greens for the smooth walls, this church uses shades of amber and yellow - very warm colours that suggest the change in seasons. There was a pumpkin display across the street that I was tempted to take a picture of when photographing this church. The stain glass windows follow one after the other down the side walls of the church and each has a multi-coloured geometric design on the lower half and the symbol of one of the 12 apostles on the upper portion. The congregation was young and plentiful and it was a pleasure to see so many families gathered on a fall morning. Somewhat surprisingly, there were several members of the choir and their voices were confident and joyous this morning. I notice that 4 people are listed on the bulletin as directors of the choir and it is evident that this parish puts an effort into the musical portion of the service and what a delight for those listening.
We had the pleasure of watching a baptism which made for a shorter homily. The reading was one of my favourites - the story of the lost sheep...and I thought again about my lost keys. Sometimes we loose silly things like keys or glasses and sometimes we lose friendships or children, ourselves, or our way. Faith reminds us that the Good Shepherd is always there to lead us back home.
Oh, and my keys? I found them when I got home.
Miss M.
Raglan Road
This entry is a full day late in the writing of and I have lost sleep over it. I woke in the night a few times wondering if it was time to rise having had bylines and different parts of yesterday's events framed for this page. ....This morning I have nothing.
I awoke early Sunday and quietly got under way. I had time to enjoy my own company and decided that before I met my friend at St. Agatha I would drive through and photograph the valley that I adore so much .Leaving Stratford I went off the main highway and drove smaller secondary roads meandering in a SE direction. I drove at a slow pace taking in and cataloging what I saw along the way. The hardwood lots are going to turn very soon, giving up this years leaves and that event alone is worth watching and photographing. The big valleys in Southern Ontario are visually explosive in the fall when Nature decides to put on her autumn colours. Before long I was driving along the Huron tract and stopped again at Pinehill, parked and photographed the view. The sun hadn't made a full recovery from overcast and rain filled skies that had been in the area for days. Early morning fog was still hanging on and affected the light and photos. I plan to return and retake these shots during the fall and make sure there is sun on that day. I would highly recommend a trip along the roads that run beside the Huron Tract in the bigger centers where the pioneer planted trees that encroach the road are turning colours.
The slow pace is what I was after and had left my cell off for that very reason . As my friend was trying to get in touch with me I was seeing and capturing this gorgeous view. I turned to the south on Pinehill road and drove through the countryside with a certain lead going off in my head every once in awhile. This particular stanza wasn't one of the countless Knopfler guitar leads but rather a very sweet Irish fiddle lead that is in an amazing effort by Knopfler and Donal Lunny.This video and haunting melody have been forefront in my mind for a day or two and I don't mind a bit! Raglan Road is a story about impossible love and will stir something even in the coldest of hearts. Good luck with your new addiction!
I came to a cross roads and took a left, changed my heading and soon found myself at the top of another valley. This one is New Dundee Ontario and I cruised slowly into town . It being quite early on a Sunday am the vehicular traffic was negligible and the only pedestrian was a man wearing his Sunday best complete with umbrella walking happily up the road towards the church that is almost atop this hill. The man very graciously acknowledged my passing with a nod of his head and a curt flick of his wrist , using his umbrella as a walking and greeting stick. I stopped the car and introduced myself to none other than Graham Burkhart the current Pastor of Bethel Evangelical Church which we were standing in front of. I explained to Graham about my journey and fascination about a certain valley. He chimed in agreement over its beauty and suggested a few vantage points for photography. We spoke briefly of St. Agatha and both the Amish and Mennonite history in the region. I thanked him and left feeling wiser than when I came.
I turned North in New Dundee and headed for St. Agatha , soaking up this early morning drive on a foggy Autumn day. I stopped the car well before the town of St. Agatha to photograph a scene. The steeple of the Catholic church which was my destination could be seen from a great distance away and lent itself to a great photo op. When I stopped at the side of the road I used the car door for support to steady my hands and shot the scene. Turning I seen a great secondary scene and photographed it as well. An old GMC pickup that is still working out in front of a garage in tall weeds didn't have to ask to be photographed! I travelled on into town and parked the car in order to get more photographs.
I photographed St. Agatha church and waited for my companion to arrive. Unlike any other time in our journey's history we didn't connect and it was all because of a slight miscommunication. So with a full camera card I departed St. Agatha Ontario for home and vowed to retake the photos when it was sunny. I got up this am and did just that. I have posted the new photos.
Lorne
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Christ the King Church/St. Patrick's Church/James Street Baptist Church - Hamilton, Ont. AND a Return Visit to Our Lady in Guelph, Ont. - Sept. 5/10
Christ The King Church Hamilton Ont.Today the city of Hamilton was on the agenda. We planned to be busy - squeezing in visits to Christ the King Cathedral, the home to the Bishop of the Diocese of Hamilton, as well as visits to two Joseph Connolly designed churches, St. Patrick's and the James Street Baptist Church which has the distinction of being the only church designed by Connolly for a non-Catholic patron. We rounded out the day by spontaneously attending a tour of "Our Lady" in Guelph on the way home. Four churches in 6 hours - certainly a record for us and I admit my mind is spinning!
I struggled on how to summarize my experience at the 3 churches in Hamilton. I had never been to Hamilton, and maybe it is really here I need to begin. Hamilton, it seems to me, is a city of contrasts. Image and reality. Rich and poor. Concrete and trees. Water and mountainous stone. I had always pictured Hamilton in my mind much like the "steel capital of Canada" suggests - densely populated, industrialized, with pollution producing manufacturing industries. I wasn't prepared for the stunning vista when driving into the city - the cool blues of Lake Ontario on one side with the deep greens of the trees rising out of the mountain on the other and the city streetscape situated between. I simply wasn't prepared for the beauty of the city's natural location. My friend and I talked about Hamilton and we realized that while it is true steel has played a very important role in the history and development of this city, there is much more to Hamilton than it's nickname suggests. They have a university (McMaster) and college (Mohawk) and a world-renowned teaching hospital, the Royal Botanical Gardens, Dundurn Castle and the highly regarded national newspaper "The Globe and Mail". Industry, yes. But also health sciences and education and the arts and history and a beautiful natural setting that can truly rival any city in Canada.
Where do the churches fit into all of this? There again, by way of contrasts. While they all share the Gothic revival style, almost there the similarities end. Christ the King Cathedral is situated on the beautiful mountain entering the city and where Bishop John McNally announced in 1931 "We will have the finest church in Canada". It dominates the western entrance to the city. St. Patrick's Church, once home to the Bishop before the building of Christ the King, is in the heart of the very urban, almost gritty, downtown core at one time the east end of Hamilton. We were startled to see bars on business windows and locking mechanisms on car steering wheels. James Street Baptist church is located only a few blocks away in the same neighbourhood.
Christ the King has smooth limestone on it's walls from Indiana and the Ontario Credit Valley and, as the description in the church bulletin says "it is stately, solid and serene". St. Patrick's and James Street Baptist basic building material is rough hammered dressed stone with finished stone reserved for around windows and doors only. Smooth and rough.
But why focus on contrasts - perhaps it is better to think about similarities. If seating Catholics and Baptists at the same table, it is always more useful to concentrate on what brings us together, not what separates us. We didn't have a chance to visit the interior of James Street Baptists. However, the interiors of Christ the King and St Patrick's share many common features. The central nave, the flanking isles, the Gothic arches, the stained glass, the massive supporting pillars to name a few. But more than this - they both provide inspiration and consolation in the serenity of their walls.
Christ the King because it beacons the wonderment and light of our faith from it's position on the mount. St. Patrick's because it stands it's ground in the very toughest part of the city. It reaches into the deepest and blackest part of the night and lights a candle. Yes, maybe they aren't so different after all.
When Jesus spoke again to the people, he said, "I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will never walk in darkness, but will have the light of life."
Miss M.
Choosing Battles and Soup Lines
Plans of travelling to Hamilton and attending two Joseph Connolly creations were expanded to include a total of no less than four churches. I walked away from my house today at 4 am to pick up my wheels for the day. I had went to bed at midnight, fell asleep fairly easily and then woke on the hour for 4 hours finally giving up on a night’s rest at 0400. The early morning autumn air felt good and I was perused by only one passing police cruiser on my brisk walk. I loaded my cooler and clothes and left for the day a little before 5 am. With a little more than one half hour of driving ahead to pick up my travelling companion my only concern was that I had to come up with some way to ditch 1.5 hours.
Joseph Connolly, an Irish born Architect was a prominent figure in the business of church building in the 1800's. He was proliferate, having either constructed or refurbished over 40 churches in North America. His life's work is the backdrop of this journey. I have since a child growing up in Southern Ontario, always admired from afar mind you, the big Gothic church that can be seen from the 403 as it winds through Hamilton Ontario. This building is something out of a book and for the onlooker it has a magical quality that has to be felt to be appreciated. I convinced my friend and travelling companion to join me on a journey to see , discover and photograph these buildings. Before Hamilton we had attended eight churches of which four were Connolly creations including a Cathedral. To be a true Cathedral, a church or basilica must also be the seat of the Bishop and St. Peter's Basicala in London is just that. The trip today has been planned and delayed for awhile. The travelling to Hamilton and Toronto in order to see a Gothic building is time consuming and we thought it would be better to take in two churches in Hamilton in the same morning. That would leave leisurely travel time on the return trip.
For over forty years I have been awe struck by buildings and the way they are impactive on us. As a small boy I remember attending the post office in downtown Brantford with my father and seeing the banker drawer oak walls, seas of green Terrazzo flooring and massive Ash window frames. The "green leak" that is telltale copper flashing onto stone or limestone that is oozing it's liquid core down the side of a building has always caught my eye. The "green leak " can be seen in any gorge where rock and water live in close proximity. My favourite source of this natural occurrence is on Government buildings that are made of Quarry slab and are perfectly square and stately. These buildings garner respect and give off the feeling of being grounded and are a haven to the eye. The church that is atop the Hamilton Mountain is no exception. The Niagara Escarpment makes up her bed, her position is serene to us and obsequious towards the heavens. Her mandate, like all churches is clear and she fulfills this willingly. The building of course is Christ The King Cathedral in Hamilton Ontario.
I ventured out of Stratford towards Kitchener much too early in anticipation of the day. I either wake entirely too early or much too late to do anything productive so at a little before 5 am I was happily driving eastbound in a borrowed car to pick my friend up. After swapping cars we got under way and travelled to Hamilton down highway 6, an old Ontario road that links more than a dozen small towns in Southern Ontario. It was most likely the same path that our mentor for this adventure took . Connolly built churches in Hamilton and Our Lady in Guelph and either took the train or travelled this or another similar road to his destination. He was the architect who designed St. Patrick's in Hamilton. In 1875 the Baptists in the Hamilton area approached him saying that he being an Irish Catholic didn't bother them and they would like very much for him to design a church for them. Connolly obliged them and designed James Street Baptist Church, the oldest Baptist Church in Ontario. As we neared Hamilton my friend reiterated that the images of St. Patrick’s were not all that impressive, that the uppermost portion of her steeple was missing. I couldn't understand how a church as magnificent as the one that looked upon me every summer as we drove home from vacation and countless times as an adult I drove under her on the 403 was left to ruin. We came in from the west and as we crested yet another valley I noticed St. Patrick's in all her Gothic splendor. I circled in and drove the one way streets to navigate closer to her. I found the driveway tucked away on the side street off King St. and approached from the east. There she was, partly shaded with the early sun on her top most bell house. This church didn't have steeples so my friend was wrong ...or was she? I drove up to the church and read her placard. Christ The King Cathedral. Hmm that isn't right. What is going on here? I was wrong! All this time I had been telling people that an Irishman named Joseph Connolly had built St. Patrick's in Hamilton and it was a Cathedral ( all true ) . I also told them that this building at the top of the mountain was in fact St. Patrick's ( not true at all). The Cathedral or Bishop's seat was moved a few times in the Hamilton Diocese and whenever that happened a new Cathedral was born and the old one became a church. I felt as stupid as I had been, not doing the research on this. My friend brushed it off and told me that she was celebrating mass here because it was the Cathedral of her Diocese . So we had to fly here if we were going to photograph St. Patrick's and James Street Baptist and then return here for mass. We quickly left after photographing this magnificent structure and running down the driveway to the bottom of the mountain with a camera in my hand I was perused by only 2 police cruisers.
Christ The King east wall early am sun
Christ The King Church Hamilton OntarioThe drive to St. Patrick's was uneventful through early Sunday am downtown Hamilton and we entered the way of the rear driveway. The Irish builder jumped at me as soon as I laid eyes on the building. The front of this old building is surrounded by pavement and there is a basketball hoop within 12 feet of the head.
The building is not true on a east/west axis but walking around to the rear of the church I could see images of Limerick Ireland before my eyes. Connolly took this one from home. This building is in incredibly good shape for the age and level of maintenance. There was scaffolding erected on the back wall of the church and pails from Mason's were upside down on the planking. I could see telltale signs of very industrious renovations going on and felt a pang of guilt for not helping. The heavy short main door in the very thin but wide Narthex was closed and locked and this made me swivel my head to see where I was. Connolly put this church up on the East end of Hamilton for Irish parishioners that worked in the iron mills on lake Ontario. It would have been new and fresh perhaps even "Kinkora" in nature. There is a valley and mountains in a bay on a lake named Ontario. You can drink the water from the streams and eat the fish from the lake. It is 1877 and this building has just been completed. The Bishop of the Diocese has his seat here and the industrial age is about to hit any day now. Thirty five miles to the southwest a Scottish immigrant to Canada by the name of Bell has invented something quite unique. He is in Tutela Heights , a small hamlet burg of Brantford and his telephone is going to bring changes they say.
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Front of St. Patrick's Hamilton Ontario.jpg)
Rear Of St. Patrick's Church HamiltonAfter photographing the exterior of St. Patrick's we decided to at least see James Street Baptist. I drove over quickly, the distance not being a factor more-so the configuration of one way streets being difficult for new users. James Street Baptist Church is situated right across from the Family Y which still lets rooms by the look of the male transient traffic. I instinctively took stock of my surroundings once again and started to photograph this building. Having a shiny camera in my hands and being distracted by the threat of theft and oncoming traffic was a determining factor in the quality and number of photographs.
James Street StreetscapeThere were 3 structures in very close proximity that I would have liked to investigate. James Street Baptist Church which is a true Connolly right down to the ornate stone work and cinquefoils with stained glass, St, Paul's Presbyterian Church which is right beside the Baptist church and had spires that were incredible and rounding out this block, the very top to a skyscraper that someone had put a crown of sorts upon. The Baptist Church is steady in between hydro transformers, a smaller 1960 Ontario service style building and the corner. After photographing this church we decided to return once again to St. Patrick's to discover more and possibly photograph the interior.
St. Patrick's Church had her doors open upon our return and entering we felt at home. This church is truly a 13th century neo Gothic style church. Massive pillars hold up flying buttresses in this small church. The front of the church has a beautiful "Rose" window and a multitude of small stained "rosettes" in cinquefoils in the clerestory.
St. Patrick's Church Hamilton Ont. If you look up Limerick Ireland images the sides of this building will be displayed. Joseph Connoly took this building's design right from his birthplace and childhood and transformed it here for the day's mostly Irish congregates. We photographed silently and then sat in different pews absorbing in our own style what we wanted from this beautiful building. The elderly crowd that was gathering acknowledged us and bade us well. There was a pair of gentlemen that sat in the most rearward bench, both leaning on canes , dressed in grey flannel suit coats and hats. They looked at home here and nodded in agreement on both our arrival and departure. We left feeling a little overwhelmed by the volume of information we had received thus far in the day.
We had to return to Christ The King Cathedral for mass and doing so we met some very nice people. Upon arrival I parked and then realized I had parked badly. This church parking lot was going to get extremely busy after mass and we would be stuck if I didn't turn the car around. I backed into a spot and then realized I had interrupted a lady trying to do the same maneuver. We met Angela who was going to do choir work and we informed her of our journey. She immediately told us that we should meet the church's webmaster Mike Perron which she hailed from his greeting duties. We met Mike who very cordially told us of the church's history and invited us to enjoy our stay. He and his family have been coming to this church for 12 years and travel every Sunday from neighboring Brantford. As you walk in the rear side doors the size of this building is what really grabs you. You feel instantly safe and humbled all at once. This church is true Gothic with stantions and buttress standing on columns that go into the earth some unknown distance. She is 235 feet long and 72 feet wide and this church, built in only 2 years used steel in her framing. With the introduction of steel in construction the Architects could push previous parameters aside to allow for bigger, wider and stronger buildings.
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From the choir interior Christ The KingHer massive ceilings are a maze of framing and plaster. The columns come out of the mountain and push towards the heavens and hold up not only the roof but also full stone block walls in the clerestory! The arches are an amazing tribute to builders of the past and looking at the expansive ceiling I envisioned this church being able to float in water if turned over on its roof. The ribbing is superior to the finest of all wooden sailing ships for strength durability and grandeur. The windows in the clerestory are exquisite and go on seemingly forever. The Apse and Sanctuary is made from beautiful marble. The church's website states the Stations of the Cross were carved from a single piece of marble and is of the same material that Michelangelo worked from.
This building was dedicated in 1933 a very short two years after her inception. At an original cost of one million dollars it took an army of workers to complete her. The start of construction was just two years into the depression and with soup lines forming everywhere in North America , this venture was a bold one indeed. The major work force in Hamilton in 1931 was in fact the huge influx of Italian immigrants that came in 1910 to 1914. Neither before nor after this was the number of Italians landing on our shores as high in such a short period of time. These immigrants felt that they may be able to garner special attention from the Bishop if they built him a church of great stature. There was very little employment in the country and inflation ruled the economy. In between wars the nation was truly in a dark period and the Bishop of the day was building a church that would be unrivaled in Canada. This act of faith alone would have produced more of the same and inspiration in troubled times. The largest bell in the bell house "The Bourdon" was donated by the Prime Minister of Canada.
The Church's Rector Rev. Edward House a Cape Bretoner by birth gave a very memorable sermon and has a likable approach to the gospel. He spoke of choosing battles that are winnable and the negotiating the terms of peace in the event of a loss. After mass I introduced myself to the church's organist and asked if I could attend the balcony. The organ with its massive pipes is housed up there and the view is incredible. Looking to the back you can see the "Rose" window and to the front you can see the altar with a special view. The clerestory is quite visible from the choir stands and the attention to detail in the original build is apparent. The construction of this massive structure in just two years is an amazing feat. We left the church after mass had ended and photographed the exterior. We met a fellow by the name of Mike Marion who was a fountain of knowledge not only about the church and her beginnings, but also the town’s economic and genealogical history. Upon leaning on the cement railing at the rear of the church I could not see the highway and could barely hear the din of traffic. The grounds are an amazing effort and survive surrounded by a concrete jungle. We left the grounds feeling refreshed and entered traffic for the return trip home.
I headed back to the north and kept to old Ontario roads in order to keep urban sprawl at bay. I drove for almost an hour before I felt an inspiration. I had seen a mile marker for Guelph and thought it would be nice to revisit Our Lady. Upon our arrival in the parking lot of Our Lady we discovered a sign that portrayed “Church Tours 1 to 3 pm.” Talking it out we decided to attend and are glad we did.We decided to eat at a local picnic area and after a trek through a park found shelter from the high wind and cold of the early fall day in a river bank pocket. The water was swift where we camped with a blanket strewn over an fallen tree that had invited us to sit. Good food and conversation only added to this fairly private idyllic setting on a very nice fall day.This part of the day was one of the most memorable for me and I felt compelled to write about it.
We were part the first party and the church tour were broken up into 3 distinct parts with 5 guides telling their share of the history. These people were amazing and very knowledgeable. We learned what most of the stained glass windows depicted and that the windows were in fact poor folk's bibles. At the very front of the church we met Angela who was an oratorical delight and Gordon Leopold who possessed a very large wealth of information about the church. My ignorance about what the purpose of the chapels in the Sacristy was erased and I looked upon the open rear doors once again as I had during my first visit to see the town center idly going about its early autumn Sunday afternoon.
The introduction of the industrial age upon the glacially forged province of Ontario was the turning point of man's hold on the world. Epic changes from farming to an industrial community were worldwide. The use of steel versus wood in construction brought in a new era. Gothic churches are a product of an era gone by and sadly will not be built again. The steel furnaces and smelters in Hamilton Ontario are the city's earning power and the big church on top of Hamilton Mountain a testament of faith. Christ The King is not a Joseph Connolly creation, however shares his love of the Gothic Church in her stone work and lines. At the core of the church is the heart of an ever watchful God, intent on our well being.
Lorne
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